Not long ago, my husband Mark and I took a group tour through Egypt and Jordan. While Egypt had fascinated me for many years, the only thing I really knew about Jordan was from watching Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade when they went to Petra. Jordan was a surprisingly interesting and beautiful country full of incredible sights, wonderful food and friendly people.
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One of our stops along the tour included a night at a Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum (Arabic for “Valley of the Moon”). We stayed at the Zawaideh Desert Camp:
The Bedouins are a semi-nomadic people, meaning they are nomadic for part of the year, but return to their homes for agricultural purposes during planting and harvesting seasons. Some have abandoned their traditional lifestyle altogether for more urban dwellings.
Once we arrived, our hosts showed us where we were going to sleep.
When I read about staying at a Bedouin desert camp as part of our tour, I somehow pictured us sleeping under the stars, right on the sand, surrounded by camels. Our accommodations were simple, but our beds weren’t directly on the sand after all (though that would have been okay with us). Instead, we had a row of goat-hair tents with real beds inside!
We spent some down time with one of the Bedouins at the camp, who proudly claimed to have five wives. “How do you manage to handle so many women?” one of the men in our tour group asked, half-jokingly. “Camel milk,” the Bedouin replied with a grin. “Camel milk makes you strong.”
We had the rest of the afternoon to just hang out, catch up on our travel journals and explore the scenery around us.
The area had a bit of a desolate, lunar feel, but the rich colours of the sand and rocks offered a comforting warmth.
It wasn’t all sand and desert though. A few plants do manage to survive here, adding shocking pops of colour:
When suppertime rolled around, our Bedouin hosts led us in a sort of impromptu procession through the camp. They had been cooking supper all day in pots that they buried in the ground over hot coals. They led us to where the pots were buried, and we watched as they uncovered each one and carried them to the long tables in the supper tent. We were treated to an amazing buffet-style feast of chicken and goat dishes, rice, vegetables and bread.
After supper, our hosts invited us to gather around the fire pit to relax and let the food settle. We all became incredibly lethargic, slumping against each other against the pillows, while two men from the camp played guitars and sang to entertain us. At one point they asked us all to get up and dance, so we peeled ourselves off of the long couches and danced around the fire like care-free nomads.
Camel Rides in the Desert
In the morning we got to why we had really come to the Bedouin camp – camel rides! I admit, I was a bit scared. Camels can be mean, and they spit, not to mention bite. But they are so very cute!
We were each paired up with a camel as well as a camel-handler. My camel-handling man was a diminutive fellow, but what he lacked in stature, he more than made up for with a fabulous head of hair.
We rode for about an hour, which, frankly was enough. It’s not a smooth ride. Camels lurch, and you bounce, and every once in a while they come to a sudden, unexpected stop if they find a bush to nibble upon, throwing you forward in the saddle. (Speaking from experience here!)
It was a great way to see more of the landscape though.
I can’t imagine riding a camel all day across the sand dunes in the blistering sun. But getting on my camel and riding it were the least of my problems. The getting off part….now that was a true challenge. Because my camel? Decided I wasn’t getting off. Maybe ever.
My camel only let me think he was going to let me climb off of him. But every time my handler got the camel to kneel down on his front legs, I would pitch forward. Then, the camel would abruptly stand up again, throwing me backward in the seat.
It was the slowest, worst rocking horse ride ever. I’m sure it took over half a dozen tries before Camel finally decided to stop toying with me and kneel down fully.
It was just long enough for me and my jelly-like legs to hop off, back onto solid ground. I think my camel is telling his friend here how hilarious his joke was!
Overall, the experience of staying at a Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum was a welcome one. It was also one of the most memorable highlights on our Middle Eastern journey.
(Sure, NOW he lies down! LOL!)
Best Time to Visit
Although Jordan is typically hot and dry, evenings in the desert can get quite cold.
The best time to visit Wadi Rum is in the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November). In the summer months (June to August), daytime temperatures can run between 30-40 degrees Celsius. Winter temperatures (December to February) average between 10-15 degrees Celsius, with the temperature dropping below zero on the coldest nights of the year. So aim for shoulder season in order to be comfortable both in the daytime and the evenings.
Where to Stay:
For our Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum, we stayed at the Zawaideh Desert Camp. But you can find additional accommodations here: